My friends and I have been going over some ideas to try and accomplish the stopped attack without using/using very little compulsion. I was wondering if anyone on this board has learned ways of accomplishing this.
I figure every time I turn around someone has taught something new with a clicker, so maybe someone has come up with a way to accomplish the stopped attack like that.
I figure every time I turn around someone has taught something new with a clicker, so maybe someone has come up with a way to accomplish the stopped attack like that.
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The truth is out there, but so are the lies. - Dana Scully
Take one very long or 2 long fences and place them in a slight angle right off the line off attack. Let the decoy stand at one end of the fence at the left side. Let the dog attack and blow off the attack at +/- 5 meter when he is beside the fence(s) the decoy moves to his right and thus places the fence between him and the dog. Praise the dog when he comes to you.
As in every obedience exercise, you need to break down the exercise in small behaviors and condition those gradually raising the distraction and stimulation level.
I have seen very big mistakes while teaching this exercise.
You can't expect a dog to stop an attack on a moving, stimulating, agitating decoy at a long distance if this dog won't stop going after a ball when asked to, or if he won't stop whatever he's doing and come when called.
You can't expect, all of a sudden, a dog to stop what he has been rewarded for doing for years (put in position, given the attack command and bite), specially if you start when the dog is old and very conditioned to the attack "ritual" exercise.
At first, you can't expect a dog to come when called off a decoy in exchange for nothing.
When you use passive pressures , you can't expect the dog not to notice when you take them out of the scenario.
In other words, if before you start with the stopped attack, your dog is conditioned to rutine exercises and not to obey, if your dog is not listening to you all the time...it will be very difficult and you will probably make the dog loose confidence while going to attack due to adquired conflicts, specially if you use force.
My thoughts on this, as I do not want to use the long line prong deal, were to use a harness and a backtie, and start by having someone play with a tug on the line to see where he is at with the whistle recall. He comes off the decoy quickly enough, but that isn't really what we are talking about here.
If the whistle recall goes well and he will come to me while someone is playing tug right in front of him, I was looking for some intereting ways to do the stopped attack without a lot of compulsion.
Just trying to stay "out of the box" with this dog.
Thanks for the replys, I want to hear as many as I can.
The majority of my dog's stopped flee attack was and sometimes still is, trained with my husband running with a large tug, that way he can pull it away if she does not return.
Now, how I as handler can accurately judge what IS 3 meters